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When compiling a list of London’s top eateries, one might expect familiar award-winning establishments. However, situated near the top among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This accolade has left the family totally surprised.

“I am utterly surprised,” remarks a family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble restaurant earning such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.